During my recent two months in Southern India, food was a constant enjoyment for me. Not just the rich flavors, textures, and smells. It was the entire experience of it all—learning how to truly eat with my hands, going vegetarian, and discovering my favorite meals.

thali meal with roti

Getting Hands On with My Food

Before coming to India, there were a few ethnic foods that I enjoyed, which were traditionally eaten with your hands: Ethiopian, Moroccan, and of course—nachos. India took this to a whole new level…

hand in curd rice

Eating with your hands in India, is serious business. I was going knuckle deep into sauces, curries, and curd (a watery yogurt). At first, it was a real shock. A little shameful actually. Once you get over the initial embarrassment—such as the not knowing, if you crossed the line, by licking your fingers in public?—things become really fun. Besides, why would you want to eat curry and rice with a fork, spoon, or chopsticks? Fingers are perfect for the job!

Things to know, if you are to eat with your hands: A hand-wash can always be found at a restaurant, and most street stalls. If you don’t see one, just ask. Carry a bandana with you, for drying your hands. Always use your right hand when eating. Left is culturally reserved for dirty tasks, such as picking up shoes, and well… wiping your ass.

Vegetarianism

sacred cow

I am far from a vegetarian. Trying it once in the past, left me malnourished after a month, so I gave up on the idea. In the South of India though, meat often seemed questionable at best, and was associated to relatively costly meals. After my first few Indian meals, my stomach and body felt overwhelmed with joy. The perfect balance of rich flavors, and substance. Then there were all the options and variations on the many dishes that I found myself loving, which had me forgetting all about meat, during my two month stay.

The Food Itself

I had a love for Indian food long before I ever set foot in the country. My exposure was very limited though. Many of the foods I was familiar with, such as tandoori chicken, I never bothered trying while in India. Other dishes, such as Aloo gobi (potato and cauliflower), were so incredibly better than what I knew.

The Dosa

freshly made dosa

Best described as a very thin pancake, cooked with rich oil. This became the staple of my diet. Served traditionally for breakfast or lunch—although, I ate it night and day. It could be served small & flat, stuffed (masala dosa), or in the shape of a huge cone (ghee roast dosa). No matter the form, it is eaten with a few a chutneys (sauces). My favorite pairing is with fresh coconut chutney, during the morning.

Idly and Vada

Idly is a fluffy white bread, with servings of 2- 3 brought out at a time. Vada is something of a spicy donut. Usually very cheap, 15 rupees or less (25 cents US). Best eaten for breakfast, and served with a few chutneys.

Thali Meals

Thali meal

Banana leaf lunch

My favorite meal, because it has a bit of everything. Rice, and a piece of bread, centered between several sauces, curd, and served on a banana leaf, or metal tray. Spicy, hot, sweet, savory—you have all the flavors.

Biriyani

veg biriyani

Curry flavored rice, stacked high on a plate. Mixed with vegetables, egg, and/or meat. Most often found at lunch time—filling and delicious. Order a flat bread to eat it with, such as a chapathi/roti, naan, or a paratha (thick and rich).

Chai

chai made in the wild

Chai, which means tea, is something very special in India. It brought me calm within those busy chaotic cities, as I escaped into a tea stand, or took a moment to sip a glass, while road-side. Unless you are near the tea plantations, it is almost always served as black tea with milk. Masala (spice) chai, with no sugar, is what I love most.

Food Reflections

Man preparing food

So much was left behind, when I departed India. Within a day, I was already eating meat again—I couldn’t cope with the pathetic vegetarian options on my flight, or those offered at my Egyptian hotel, which were meager and unexciting. I had also assumed that I would get sick in India, after all the issues I had from my troubles with street food in South East Asia—ironically, I never felt better, than as I did during my months in India—yet I developed stomach issues almost as soon as I returned back to the United States. Many Americans, do not realize how prevalent processed food is in our country, nor how horrible it is on our bodies, along with the out-of-control portion sizes. India, I miss you!